This hand embroidery glossary is a practical reference for the most common terms you’ll encounter when reading a pattern, following a tutorial, choosing supplies, or planning your next embroidery project. Each definition is kept short and clear so you can quickly find the term you’re looking for and get back to stitching.
This glossary focuses specifically on hand embroidery. For related terminology, see the Cross Stitch Glossary and Sewing Glossary.
Embroidery Stitches
BACK STITCH
A simple line stitch worked by bringing the needle up ahead of the previous stitch and taking it back down at the end of that stitch. One of the most commonly used stitches for outlines, lettering, and fine details.
BLANKET STITCH
An edging stitch made with looped stitches along the edge of fabric. It can be used to finish appliqué edges or as a decorative embroidery stitch.
CHAIN STITCH
A looped stitch in which each new stitch is worked through the loop of the previous one, creating a connected chain. It can be used for outlines, borders, lettering, and filled areas.
COUCHING
An embroidery technique in which a thread, yarn, ribbon, or cord is laid on the surface of the fabric and secured with small stitches. It is especially useful for thicker or decorative threads that are difficult to stitch through the fabric.
CROSS STITCH
A stitch formed by two diagonal stitches crossing to create an X. Cross stitch can be used as a decorative element in hand embroidery as well as being the foundation of counted cross-stitch projects.
FERN STITCH
A composite stitch made from groups of straight stitches branching from a central line. It is commonly used for leaves, stems, ferns, and other botanical designs.
FRENCH KNOT
A small raised knot made by wrapping the embroidery thread around the needle before inserting it back into the fabric. French knots are often used for flower centres, eyes, dots, and textured details.
LAZY DAISY STITCH
A single looped stitch made from a detached chain and secured with a small straight stitch. It is commonly arranged in groups to create flower petals and other decorative motifs.
LONG AND SHORT STITCH
A filling technique using alternating long and short stitches worked in overlapping rows. It is commonly used for needle painting and realistic shading because the stitches can blend different colours smoothly.
RUNNING STITCH
A basic line stitch made by passing the needle in and out of the fabric at regular intervals. It creates a dashed line and can be used for outlines, details, decorative effects, and temporary stitching.
SATIN STITCH
A filling stitch made from closely placed straight stitches that cover the fabric completely. It creates a smooth, solid surface and is commonly used for leaves, petals, lettering, and small shapes.
SEED STITCH
A filling technique made from small, randomly placed straight stitches. Unlike satin stitch, seed stitch leaves some of the fabric visible and creates a light, textured effect.
SPLIT STITCH
A line stitch in which the needle passes through the previous stitch, splitting the embroidery thread. It creates a slightly textured line and is particularly useful for outlines, lettering, and detailed designs.
STEM STITCH
A slightly twisted line stitch traditionally used for stems and curved outlines. The overlapping stitches create a rope-like appearance that follows the direction of the line.
STRAIGHT STITCH
A single stitch worked in a straight line between two points. Straight stitch is one of the simplest embroidery stitches and can be used individually, in groups, or as part of more complex designs.
WHIPPED STITCH
A decorative technique in which a second thread is woven around an existing line of stitches without passing through the fabric. It can add colour, dimension, and a raised cord-like appearance to embroidered lines.
Embroidery Tools and Materials
EMBROIDERY FLOSS
Thread specifically designed for embroidery. Stranded cotton is one of the most commonly used types and can be separated into individual strands to create different stitch thicknesses.
EMBROIDERY HOOP
A frame made from two rings that holds fabric taut while you stitch. Hoops are commonly made from wood, plastic, or bamboo and help maintain even fabric tension.
EMBROIDERY NEEDLE
A hand-sewing needle designed for embroidery, usually with a sharp point and an eye large enough to accommodate embroidery thread. Different needle sizes are suited to different fabrics and thread thicknesses.
FABRIC MARKER
A pen, pencil, or other marking tool used to transfer or draw an embroidery design onto fabric before stitching. Different markers are designed to disappear with water, heat, or time.
LIGHT PAD / LIGHT BOX
An illuminated flat surface used to trace a design onto fabric. The pattern is placed underneath or behind the fabric so the light makes the design visible through it.
MILLINER NEEDLE
A long, straight needle with a small, round eye. Its consistent shaft makes it particularly useful for stitches involving multiple thread wraps, such as bullion knots.
NEEDLE THREADER
A small tool used to help guide embroidery thread through the eye of a needle, especially useful when working with multiple strands or a small needle eye.
STABILISER
A material placed behind or beneath fabric to provide additional support while embroidering. Stabiliser can help reduce puckering and distortion, particularly when working on stretchy, lightweight, or loosely woven fabrics.
STRANDED COTTON
A divisible embroidery thread made from six loosely twisted strands. You can separate the strands and use different numbers of them to control the thickness of your embroidery.
TRANSFER PAPER
Paper coated with a transferable pigment used to move a printed embroidery design onto fabric. The design is typically traced over with a stylus or pencil to leave a temporary outline on the fabric.
Embroidery Pattern and Design Terms
EMBROIDERY PATTERN
A design or template showing where embroidery should be placed on fabric. Depending on the pattern, it may include a design outline, stitch recommendations, thread colours, stitch instructions, and other project information.
MOTIF
A distinct decorative element within an embroidery design, such as a flower, leaf, bird, or geometric shape. A motif can be used on its own or combined with other motifs to create a larger design.
PATTERN TRANSFER
The process of moving an embroidery design from a printed or digital pattern onto fabric before stitching. Common methods include tracing, transfer paper, light-box tracing, and iron-on transfers.
STITCH GUIDE
A section of an embroidery pattern that identifies the stitches used in the design and explains where each stitch should be worked.
STITCH KEY
A reference within an embroidery pattern that connects specific design elements with their recommended stitches, thread colours, or other instructions.
THREAD KEY
A list within an embroidery pattern showing which thread colours or thread numbers are used for different parts of the design.
PATTERN SIZE
The finished dimensions or scale of an embroidery design. A pattern may be provided in several sizes so the design can be adapted to different projects.
PATTERN PLACEMENT
The position of an embroidery design on the fabric or finished item. Placement is particularly important when embroidering clothing, bags, hats, or other wearable and functional items.
DESIGN OUTLINE
The visible lines that define the shapes and elements of an embroidery pattern. These lines are often transferred directly onto fabric and then covered with embroidery stitches.
Fabric Terms Used in Embroidery
Some fabric terminology is shared with sewing and garment making. These terms are included here only when they are particularly relevant to choosing or preparing fabric for embroidery.
DENIM
A durable woven cotton fabric commonly used for embroidered jackets, jeans, bags, and other wearable projects. Its weight and density can affect needle choice, stabilisation, and stitch placement.
GRAIN
The direction of the threads in woven fabric. Paying attention to the grain can help you position and stabilise fabric before embroidering.
SELVEDGE
The finished edge running along the length of woven fabric. The selvedge is tightly woven and usually does not fray.
FABRIC TENSION
The degree to which fabric is stretched or held taut while stitching. Consistent tension helps prevent puckering and keeps stitches even.
For broader fabric and sewing terminology, see our [Sewing Glossary].
Embroidery Techniques and Processes
APPLIQUÉ
A technique in which a piece of fabric is attached to a background fabric and then secured with stitching. Embroidery stitches can be added around or over the appliqué to create additional detail.
BLOCKING
The process of dampening, reshaping, and drying finished embroidery to correct distortion and return the piece to the desired shape before framing or finishing.
HOOPING
The process of placing fabric between the inner and outer rings of an embroidery hoop and tightening it so the fabric is held securely for stitching.
LAYERING
Building an embroidery design by working different stitches, colours, or elements over one another to create depth, dimension, or visual detail.
NEEDLE PAINTING
A detailed embroidery technique that uses long and short stitch to create smooth colour transitions and realistic images, particularly flowers, animals, and other natural subjects.
THREAD PAINTING
A form of embroidery that uses thread like paint, building up colours and shading through carefully placed stitches. Long and short stitch is commonly used for this technique.
WEARABLE EMBROIDERY
Embroidery worked directly onto clothing or accessories such as jackets, jeans, shirts, hats, bags, or shoes.
Embroidery for Selling
COMMERCIAL LICENCE
Permission from an embroidery pattern designer that allows the buyer to sell finished physical items made using the pattern. A commercial licence does not normally give permission to resell, redistribute, or share the digital pattern itself.
FINISHED ITEM
A physical product that has been completed using an embroidery design, such as an embroidered hoop, jacket, sweatshirt, bag, or other handmade item.
THRIFT FLIPPING
The practice of buying secondhand clothing or accessories, adding embroidery or other creative modifications, and reselling the transformed item.
WEARABLE ART
Decorative artwork created directly on clothing or accessories. Embroidery can turn jackets, jeans, sweatshirts, hats, and other everyday items into unique wearable pieces.
CUSTOM EMBROIDERY
Embroidery created specifically for a customer, often using a requested name, phrase, illustration, logo, or other personalised design.
EMBROIDERED GOODS
Physical products decorated with embroidery and sold as finished handmade items. Examples include clothing, accessories, home décor, gifts, and framed embroidery.
SMALL BUSINESS LICENCE
A licence offered by a pattern designer that gives a maker permission to use specified embroidery designs to create and sell finished physical products, subject to the designer’s terms.
Related Embroidery Resources
Looking for a specific term or technique? These resources can take you further:
- Embroidery Stitch Tutorials – Learn how to work individual hand embroidery stitches step by step.
- Hand Embroidery Tutorials – Explore techniques, projects, and guides for learning embroidery.
- Cross Stitch Glossary – Find cross-stitch-specific terms, abbreviations, fabrics, techniques, and supplies.
- Sewing Glossary – Look up sewing and garment-construction terminology that may also appear in embroidery projects.
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