My love affair with needle painting is growing strong! This time I decided to combine it with my other obsession with roses and create a beautifully framed embroidery decoration. If you enjoyed the Butterflies Tutorial, thread your needle, get your free pattern and follow the detailed step-by-step mystical rose tutorial below!
Disclaimer: This post might contain some affiliate links, you can find my full Disclosure Policy here.
Project Overview
PROJECT SIZE: 7cm x 8 cm (3 x 3 in)
STITCHES USED: Long and Short Stitch, Split Stitch
While this pattern is not a one-day project, it’s the perfect start for exploring the needle painting technique, a surface embroidery technique also known as silk shading, thread painting, or long-and-short shading. As the name suggests, it’s exactly like painting an image with needle and thread.
It might look a bit intimidating at first, but the technique itself uses just one stitch, the long-and-short stitch which is usually worked in one strand of silk or cotton threads.
If you’re new to hand embroidery you might want to familiarize yourself with the basics of the needle painting technique and practice your long and short stitch first. Don’t worry if it won’t look perfect at first, the more you practice, the better it will get.
If you’re looking to learn everything you need to know about the technique, check out my complete guide on how to paint with thread.
Tools and Materials for the Embroidery
This tutorial is split into two parts. First, we’ll have a look at how to embroider the pattern and in the second part, I’ll show you how I mounted and framed the finished embroidery work.
As with all needle painting projects, stitching this pattern will require either very good lighting or a magnifying lamp. While I mentioned it as optional in the tools and materials list, I highly recommend you use one for this particular project.
Check out my article on best magnifying lamps for hand embroidery to learn the different types of lamps and find out which one is the best for your needs.
Embroidery clip frame – recommended
Elbesee embroidery hoop – not recommended
Two of the most important things, when you’re working on needle painting projects, are a well-lit area and being able to see the detailed stitches. If you know you’re using this technique a lot in your projects then a magnifying lamp is a must-have tool.
Download the Mystical Rose pattern from my Free Pattern Library. To get access to the Free Pattern Library fill out the form below and I will send you an email with your password. You can read more about my Free Pattern Library here.
Preparing Your Fabric
Before cutting the fabric you need to think about the purpose of the finished embroidered piece and how you’ll mount it and frame it.
What type of frame would you like to use, what size and format, how much are willing to spend on the frame, where will it be displayed? The frame size will dictate the size of the fabric you will need.
For this tutorial, I wanted to keep things simple and accessible to everyone, so all the materials I used for mounting and framing are A4 size: the mounting board, felt sheets, and the frame, all A4!
Note: Throughout Europe and the world A4 (210 x 297mm) is the close equivalent to U.S. letter size (8.5″ x 11″). If you live in the US you can easily adapt the tutorial for 8.5″ x 11″.
Before cutting the fabric I placed the A4 mounting board over my fabric and traced a 4cm (1.5in) seam allowance around it. This extra fabric around the main A4 shape will allow me to tape it over the back of the mounting board later on.
Cut your fabric (including the seam allowance) into a 25 x 33.7cm (around 9.8 x 13.2in) piece.
Note: Whatever frame size you decide to use, keep in mind when cutting your fabric to add a seam allowance that you’ll tape over the back of your boar when mounting and framing your finished embroidery.
For this project, I used cotton fabric which I first soaked in cold water, then ironed to remove any creases. Washing your fabric before embroidery prevents shrinkage, color bleeding and removes any unwanted chemicals used to treat the fabric.
However, if you decide to use silk or satin fabric I’d recommend not to wash it, you can just press it gently with the iron without using the steam function.
Download the Free Embroidery Pattern
Download the Mystical Rose pattern from my Free Pattern Library. To get access to the Free Pattern Library fill out the form below and I will send you an email with your password. You can read more about my Free Pattern Library here.
Once you have downloaded the pattern, print the Cut and Trace file on A4 paper.
The pattern you have downloaded is full size, so when printed on the A4 paper will have the exact size to fit into a 6inch hoop. You just need to have the Fill Entire Paper option selected.
Note: If you do not own a printer, you can just trace the pattern on A4 paper, then trace it onto your fabric using one of the methods explained below.
Transferring the Pattern onto the Fabric
When transferring patterns onto dark fabrics the normal transferring methods will be hard to work. You might get away with using the Lightbox technique, only if your fabric is light enough to see through it. With most fabrics like linen blend or cotton, you won’t be able to do that though. But do not worry, there’s an easy way to transfer patterns onto darker fabrics.
My go-to method to manually transfer patterns onto dark fabrics is to use white carbon transfer paper. Let me show how easy it is to transfer your patterns onto black fabric.
To transfer the Mystical Rose pattern manually using white carbon transfer paper, you can use this simple method:
1. Place the carbon paper (face down)
2. Place the pattern on top of the tracing paper and start tracing using an HB Mechanical Pencil
If you feel you need to reinforce the traced pattern you can go one more time over the already traced pattern with a white gelly pen. I am using the SAKURA – Gelly Pen Basic White.
Go very gently one more time with the gelly pen over the traced pattern. Use gentle moves and don’t put too much pressure on the gelly pen. You want your outlines to be thin, especially for delicate patterns like this one.
3. Keep tracing until you transferred the entire design onto your fabric
Mounting the Fabric in the Hoop
When stitching the butterfly pattern I initially used an embroidery hoop – which I DON’T recommend you use for this project. Although I bound the hoop before embroidering the pattern, I really had a hard time removing the hoop marks left on my fabric.
For projects that will be framed, I recommend you use an Embroidery Clip Frame (plastic or wood). This way you won’t have to worry about damaging the fabric and leaving marks hard to remove.
Embroidery clip frame
Fabric mounted in the clip frame
Color Palette and Thread List
When we’re talking about needle painting projects, color is one of the most important aspects to consider. For this pattern I chose a split complementary color palette, using Green and the two colors on each side of its complement: Red-Orange and Red-Violet.
For the snake, in order to achieve a three-dimensional effect, I used different shades of violet to mimic the light and shadow. The key for a nice blended long-and-short stitch is to use similar tones, even if you decide to change the contrast (for example from light violet into medium/dark violet).
For the entire work, I used DMC stranded cotton. It’s your choice if you prefer one brand over another, both DMC and Anchor manufacturers offer good-quality stranded cotton in a wide variety of colors. If your brand of choice is DMC, please use the thread colors below. I also included a conversion chart DMC to Anchor and DMC to HEX RGB (in case you decide to use the pattern for digital display works).
NOTE: Please bear in mind that a perfect color match between brands is not really possible.
DMC Stranded Cotton
 |  |  |  |  |
| Lavender Light | Lavender Medium | Lavender Dark | Lavender Ultra Dark | Carnation Medium |
| 211 | 210 | 209 | 3837 | 892 |
 |  |  |  |  |
| Salmon Very Dark | Garnet Medium | Forest Green Light | Forest Green Medium | Forest Green Very Dark |
| 347 | 815 | 164 | 988 | 986 |
Anchor Stranded Cotton
| | | | |
| 342 | 108 | 109 | 101 | 35 |
| | | | |
| 1025 | 44 | 264 | 243 | 246 |
RGB Values
If you plan to use this color palette for digital display works (TV, computer, tablet or smartphone) use the RGB HEX values from the chart below.
| | | | |
| #E3CBE3 | #D29FC3 | #A37BA7 | #6C3A6E | #FF798C |
| | | | |
| #BF2D2D | #87071F | #C8D8B8 | #738B5B | #405230 |
The Mystical Rose pattern was stitched with one strand of thread. Use this simple method to separate the thread:
In order to separate your thread, pull out and cut about 30-40cm length of thread from the skein, more or less the distance between your fingers and your elbow. Separate one strand and thread your needle. Use a sharp needle size 9.
1. Cut about 30-40cm of thread
2. Separate one strand
3. Pull the separated strand while holding firmly the rest
4. Thread your needle (sharp size 9)
More Color Palettes You’ll Love
- Botanical Butterfly Stitch Color Palette
- Red Fox Stitch Color Palette
- Papilio Ulysses Stitch Color Palette
- Yellow Butterfly Stitch Color Palette
Stitching the Snake
Before stitching, let’s have a look at the order of work. In this case, the rose sits on top of the snake. So it makes sense to start by stitching the snake first, then the rose and the botanical elements.
SNAKE: Fill the snake with Long and Short Stitch using DMC 211, DMC 210, DMC 209, DMC 3837
ROSE: Fill the rose with Long and Short Stitch using DMC 892, DMC 347, DMC 815
STEMS: Fill the stems with adjacent columns of Split Stitch (watch the video tutorial here) using DMC 164 and DMC 986
LEAVES: Fill the leaves with Long and Short Stitch using DMC 164, DMC 988, DMC 986, outline the leaves with Split Stitch using DMC 986.
The challenge with this project was to fill with Long and Short Stitch the snake’s curved shapes.
Key when working with irregular shapes is to always follow the directional guidelines and the natural dynamic of the subject your depicting. Also, DO NOT shorten your stitches, and DO NOT abruptly change the stitch direction.
1. Directional lines to follow when stitching the snake
2. Start by drawing a few directional lines to follow when stitching, using the same white gelly pen you used for tracing the pattern. Fill with Long and Short Stitch the small part of the snake that sits in the background using the darkest shade of Violet – DMC 3837 (Lavender Ultra Dark).
3. Continue filling with Long and Short Stitch on the right-hand side using the same darkest shade of Violet – DMC 3837 (Lavender Ultra Dark). Do not fill the entire shape, these are just the shadow areas.
When stitching, I worked from both sides – I started from the top towards the center, then from the bottom towards the center until the stitches met. Remember to always follow the directional lines.
4. Continue filling with Long and Short Stitch switching to a lighter shade of Violet – DMC 209 (Lavender Dark). Follow the directional lines and stitch in the same manner – from the top towards the center, and the bottom towards the center.
5. Add the next row using Long and Short Stitch using DMC 210 (Lavender Medium)
6. Finish the left-hand side by adding the last row using the lightest shade of Violet – DMC 211 (Lavender Light)
7. Outline with Split Stitch using the darkest shade of Violet – DMC 3837 (Lavender Ultra Dark)
8. Start stitching the top part by filling the eyes with Satin Stitch – DMC White
9. Outline the inner areas around the eyes and the outer areas of the snake’s body with DMC 3837 (Lavender Ultra Dark). Use the image above as a guide.
10. Start filling the body using Long and Short Stitch, creating a horizontal gradient from the darkest shade of Violet on the sides and gradually adding the lighter shades as you stitch towards the center. That’s where the light hits the snake’s body so that’s where the lightest shade of Violet will be used.
11. Use the color guide above to continue filling the upper section of the snake. Remember to follow the directional lines when you stitch.
12. Start stitching the bottom part by filling the first row with Long and Short Stitch using the darkest shade of Violet – DMC 3837 (Lavender Ultra Dark)
13. Add the next rows gradually making the transition from the darkest shade of Violet to the lightest. Use the color guide above and remember to follow the directional stitches.
14. When you’re done filling with Long and Short Stitch the body, add a few more details on each side. Outline with Split Stitch the upper left-hand side using the lightest shade of Violet – DMC 211 (Lavender Light). Outline the bottom left-hand side using the same lightest shade – DMC 211 (Lavender Light). Outline the bottom right-hand side using the darkest shade of Violet – DMC 3837 (Lavender Ultra Dark).
Stitching the Rose
The rose is divided into sections, and you will stitch each petal individually following the same technique. Start from the outside edge and work in towards the center, using Long and Short Stitch.
1. Start filling each petal using Long and Short Stitch from the outside edge towards the center. Start with the medium shade of red and use the darkest shade towards the inside. Use DMC 347 (Salmon Very Dark) and DMC 815 (Garnet Medium). The medium shade of red will be the one closer to the edge (that’s where usually the light hits the petals).
2. When you’re done filling the petals, outline the outer edge of each petal with Split Stitch, using the darkest shade of red – DMC 815 (Garnet Medium). This will create a nice contrast and separation between each petal.
3. Always work your Long and Short stitches from the outside edge towards the center. Using a magnifying lamp will make your stitching and color blending much easier to achieve.
4. Continue filling the petals until you finished the rose. Fill the last center petal with Satin Stitch using the darkest shade of red – DMC 815 (Garnet Medium).
5. At the end, add a few details at the outer edge of each petal in the lightest shade of red, to increase the contrast and create the illusion of light hitting the petals. Use long and Short stitch and DMC 892 (Carnation Medium).
Stitching the Leaves
To stitch the leaves you will divide each side and stitch them individually. Starting from the outside edge towards the center vein, use the color guide below to fill them with Long and Short Stitch. When done filling the leaves, stitch the center vein and the outline using Split Stitch.
1. Starting from the outside edge, fill each side of the leaves using Long and Short Stitch.
2. Stitch the center vein and the outline with Split Stitch, using the darkest shade of Green – DMC 986 (Forest Green Very Dark).
3. Continue filling the rest of the leaves following the same technique. Alternate between the shades of Green thinking about where the shadow and light will sit in real life.
4. Finish stitching the leaves and add more details to the overall embroidery if you feel like it needs more contrast or adjustments. Different types of light sources can be really flattering once you finish the entire piece. Look how gorgeous it looks!
What I normally do before mounting and framing a piece, is leave it aside for a few days. Look at it with fresh eyes in a few days and you’ll realize if it needs more contrast or any other touch-ups. Remember once you frame it, it’s done! You won’t be able to add any additional stitches.
I’d love to see your progress! Tag @makenstitch on Instagram and hashtag it #makenstitch so I can see your magic!
Tools and Materials for Mounting and Framing
In the second part of this tutorial, we’ll have a look at how to mount and frame the finished embroidery work.
Let me show you first what materials you’ll need and where to get them. For this tutorial, I wanted to use very accessible materials, easy to find and purchase from Amazon or any crafts store.
- Dressmaking crafting head pins – for blocking the fabric
- Black Foam Board – size A4 or 8.5″ x 11″ (depending of your project size)
- Black Felt Sheets – size A4 or 8.5″ x 11″ (depending of your project size)
- Double Sided Tape – to glue the felt sheet and fabric to the board
- Fabric Tape – to neaten the back of the board when done
- Baroque style frame – size A4 or 8.5″ x 11″ (depending of your project size)
Mounting and Framing Your Embroidery
I will show you my method for framing this beautiful embroidered decoration, but please feel free to get as creative as you wish and use a frame style that’s most flattering for your home.
Before mounting your embroidered work, soak in cold water, then leave it to dry and iron it on the backside.
1. Soak the finished embroidered piece in cold water
2. Iron on the backside
If your embroidered fabric looks neat, with no puckered margins around the embroidery or hoop marks, you can skip this step.
It wasn’t the case for me though, I ended up with a really stubborn hoop mark. In order to restore my fabric to its original nice shape, after I washed it I just left it to dry, mounted in the clip frame, drum-tight stretched. When completely dried I ironed it on the backside.
Luckily I was able to remove the hoop marks, but if you don’t want to complicate your life just embroider your work from the beginning into a clip frame, don’t use a hoop at all.
3. Blocking the embroidery to remove any hoop marks, puckered margins, or distortion.
Time to mount the embroidery. Gather your materials and let’s see how to neatly prepare this beauty for display!
1. Gather your mounting materials – headpins, black mount board (A4 size), black felt sheets (A4 size), double-sided tape, and black fabric tape.
2. Tape the back of your black felt sheet, using the Double Sided Tape.
3. Place the felt sheet (with the taped side down) over the Black Mount Board. Now you’ll have the mount board and felt sheet fused together, ending up with a soft surface for the embroidered fabric to sit on.
4. Line up your embroidery over the mount board and use the crafting head pins to hold it down while you stretch the fabric. Your embroidery needs to sit on top of the felted side of the mounting board. Make sure your fabric doesn’t have any creases and is drum-tight stretched.
5. Turn around your embroidery and tape the back of your mounting board using the same Double Sided Tape you used for the felt. Pull the fabric over the tape.
6. Repeat on all sides and make sure your fabric is stretched and there are no creases. When done, you need to mask and neaten the back of the board using the Black Fabric Tape.
7. Add the Black Fabric Tape along the edges to neat the back. I like to use this fabric tape as it looks like a continuation of the embroidered fabric.
8. Turn around your finished embroidered piece and use a Sticky roller to clean and tidy up your fabric.
9. This is how mine ended up! I’m really happy with the result, no distortions or hoop marks. Nice and neat, ready to be framed!!
For the last step, I used a Baroque style frame, but please feel free to use a frame that you like and that goes with the purpose of your embroidered decoration.
01. My frame came with a black Passepartout. I was a bit disappointed the Passepartout is black only on one side, but I still decided to use it. You could easily paint it black on the other side too if you decide to use it.
02. Place the Passepartout (black side down)
03. Place the mounted embroidery (right side down) on top of the Passepartout
04. Lastly place the back cardboard easel
05. Push the metallic clips to secure
06. This is how the finished embroidery looks mounted and framed using the Passepartout
07. And here it is without the Passepartout
What do you think?
When looking at the two side by side I would definitely go with the right one, no Passepartout at all. I think the frame is already busy enough and adding the Passepartout would be a bit too overwhelming.
You could always paint the frame in a darker shade or even black, so it doesn’t compete with the embroidery. Or of course, you can use an entire frame altogether.
Before I even started this project I had this thought of the finished piece sitting somewhere in the middle of a forest. And this is when the fun part started!
My daughter and I had to carry the (heavy) wooden easel and all the props to a nearby forest, for us to take a few pictures. Needless to say, we got a few funny looks on the way and lots of giggles. Ahh, fun moments and quality time spend with my little one!
Thank you so much for joining me in stitching the Mystical Rose pattern and I really hope you enjoyed it as much as I did. It’s all about being creative, not only with your stitches but with the entire process, and why not with the after pictures too! Enjoy the process of creating and have fun!
Congratulations! You have successfully completed this tutorial!
Please let me know in the comments below if you have any questions or suggestions about stitching the Mystical Rose pattern, I am always here to help and happy to hear about your experience!
If you’re looking for more flower inspiration, check out the flower coloring pages here. Even though they’re not exactly embroidery patterns, you can totally tweak them for a cool hand embroidery project and use the same technique covered in this tutorial.
You can download the Mystical Rose pattern from my Free Pattern Library. To get access to the Free Pattern Library fill out the form below and I will send you an email with your password. You can read more about my Free Pattern Library here. The downloaded pattern can only be used for personal projects.
Similar Embroidery Projects
- Sakura Tree Embroidery Decoration Tutorial
- Daisies Embroidery Decoration Tutorial
- Cherry Blossom Tutorial Free Embroidery Pattern
- Floral Alphabet: Stitching the Flower
Did you try this pattern? Don’t forget to tag @makenstitch on Instagram and hashtag it #makenstitch so I can see your work!
SAVE THIS FOR LATER? ADD THE MYSTICAL ROSE EMBROIDERY TUTORIAL TO YOUR FAVOURITE PINTEREST BOARD
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