This project has been on my mind for a while now, especially trying out the basket weave stitch. I’m so excited to share with you this lavender embroidery worked in simple, yet gorgeously looking textures.
As always, we’ll cover everything from start to finish, from materials needed, and embroidery stitches, to how to tie that cute jute twine knot on top of the basket. Gather your tools, make yourself cozy, light a lavender candle, and let’s get started!
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Watch the Video Tutorial
PROJECT SIZE: approx. 12.5x11cm (4.9×4.3in)
STITCHES USED: Basket weave stitch, stem stitch, outline stitch & lazy daisy stitch
The final embroidery size is 12.5x11cm. However, if you decide to scale down the design when printing it, thus a smaller finished embroidery, I advise you to reduce the number of strands you’ll be using – 4 strands of thread should be fine. This is especially important for the flowers, where the design is pretty crowded.
As a general rule, the smaller the design is, the less number of strands you should use. It takes a bit of experimentation with the number of strands, but worthwhile for a nice, not bulky outcome.
Another important aspect is the needle you’ll be using. Because the basket is relatively big in size, you will need a long enough needle to be able to stitch the basket weave with ease – a Milliners needle size 3 is the optimal needle for this piece.
The same goes for the jute bow. If you’d like to add the final bow, you will need a needle with a large eye – a tapestry needle size 18 should work with the thick jute twine.
Tools and Materials
For this project, you’ll need the following tools and materials. Using the right needle sizes is particularly important when stitching the basket and the jute bow.
MATERIALS TO STITCH THE LAVENDER PATTERN
- Lavender basket pattern – free download from my Free Pattern Library
- Linen, linen blend, or cotton (Klona) fabric
- Embroidery hoop 7-inch
- Transfer Pen – Erasable or Washable
- Stranded cotton embroidery floss
- Embroidery needle Milliner size 3
- Tapestry needle size 18 for the jute bow
- Natural jute twine
- Scissors
Download the Lavender Pattern
Download the lavender design from my Free Pattern Library.
To get easy access to the Free Pattern Library fill out the form below and I will send you an email with your password. You can read more details about my Free Pattern Library here.
The pattern you have downloaded is full page size, so when printed on A4 paper will have the exact size to fit into a 7-inch embroidery hoop. You just need to ensure you have the Fill Entire Paper option selected.
NOTE: If you do not own a printer, you can just trace the pattern on A4 paper, then trace it onto your fabric using your preferred tracing method.
Lavender Embroidery Color Palette
I stitched this pattern using Anchor threads. Personally, I find them a bit more saturated than the DMC brand. If using DMC threads, you can check out this thread conversion chart, but please note there might be small differences in tone and saturation.
Or, you can check these similar lavender color schemes, they’d work great for this lavender pattern:
- Stitch Color Palette Purple Flowers
- Embroidery Color Palette with Purple
- Mystical Rose Stitch Color Palette
Stitching the Basket
We’ll start by stitching the basket’s body in basket weave stitch.
Use 6 strands of thread in Anchor 379 (Mocha Beige Medium) and a Milliners needle size 3.
The first step in the basket weave stitch is to create the vertical straight lines used as a base for the weave.
Start by bringing the needle up at the top of the first vertical line, then insert the needle down at the base.
This was our first straight stitch. For the second straight stitch, emerge at the bottom of the second vertical line.
Then insert the needle at the top of the second vertical line. Continue stitching in the same manner the rest of the vertical straight stitches.
Your endpoint should be at the bottom of the last vertical straight stitch. At this point we finished the base for the weave. We’ll need to secure the thread before we continue.
To secure the thread Just tie a tiny knot on the back. Split in two the 6 strands you used for the stitching and tie a knot. I usually knot it twice just to be extra sure it’ll hold the weave.
The next step is to create the beautiful weave. Start by bringing the needle up through the fabric right at the base of the basket.
Now slide your needle over the first straight stitch, then under the second straight stitch, then over the third, and so on until you reach the last straight stitch. Your needle should slide alternatively over and under these straight baselines.
Gently pull the thread and anchor this first weave stitch by going down at the base of the basket. The tension of your stitch shouldn’t be too tight.
With the back of your needle gently pull a bit down this first weave stitch just to arrange it. This is why the tension of your stitch shouldn’t be too tight.
For the second row, emerge again on the left-hand side of the basket, slightly above your previous starting point.
Because the first row was started by going over the first base straight stitch, for the second row start by going under this first straight stitch, then over the second, and so on.
Alternate between going under and over the straight stitches, then pull the thread. Anchor the second weave by going down slightly above the previous endpoint.
When you reach the last row, you might struggle to slide the needle through the vertical lines. It’s normal, but try to stitch as much as you can to cover the supporting vertical stitches.
Once you finish weaving you can use again the back of your needle to arrange a bit the stitches.
This was the basket’s body done!
Stitching the Basket Bottom
We’ll stitch the basket’s bottom in stem stitch and the handle in outline stitch.
Use 12 strands of thread in Anchor 358 (Brown Medium) and a Milliners needle size 3.
TIP: Stem stitch and outline stitch are essentially the same stitch. The difference between the two is that when working the stem stitch your loop should be below the needle. When working the outline stitch your loop should be above the needle.
The bottom part of the basket will be stitched using 12 strands of thread. To achieve this, thread your needle with all 6 strands of thread, and knot both ends together.
Start by coming up from the back and insert the needle down one stitch length. Your loop should be below the needle.
While holding the loop below the needle, return up about halfway down the line. Pull through with the thread below the needle. This was our first stem stitch.
Start the second stitch by going forward another stitch length. While holding the loop below the needle emerge up again about halfway down the line.
If you are right-handed, same as me, follow the same left to right stitch direction. If you are lefthanded, the stitch direction would be reversed – right to left.
Once you finished filling the first row, start again from left to right a second row of stem stitches.
You can now assess your result and if needed you can add a few more stem stitches to fill the gaps. I was happy with mine, even if it’s not perfectly covered.
When you’re done stitching the bottom section, secure the thread in the same manner as we previously did. Just tie a knot on the back and cut the excess thread.
Stitching the Basket Handle
Use 12 strands of thread in Anchor 358 (Brown Medium) and a Milliners needle size 3.
The handle will be stitched using the same darker shade of brown and 12 strands of thread in the outline stitch.
Start by coming up from the back and insert the needle down one stitch length. Hold the loop on the left-hand side or above the needle if working horizontally. While holding the loop, return up about halfway down the line.
Pull through the thread. Remember to gently pull the thread since we’re working with so many strands.
Start the second stitch by going forward one stitch length while holding the loop on the left-hand side or above the needle.
Continue filling this first row of outline stitches, stitching from left to right if you are right-handed, and right to left if you are left-handed.
Start a second row of outline stitches, following the same stitch direction.
Once this second row of outline stitches is done, asses your result and decide if you need to fill a third row of outline stitches. I had massive gaps, so I had to go on and stitch another row.
But instead of starting again from the bottom of the handle, I started from the point where the gaps were obvious. We don’t want the handle to be extra bulky.
But instead of starting again from the bottom of the handle, I started from the point where the gaps were obvious. We don’t want the handle to be extra bulky.
Fill in the gaps, if any, and when you finish the last outline stitch, anchor it with a straight stitch on the front, and secure with a knot on the back.
Stitching the Lavender
We’ll stitch the lavender flowers in lazy daisy stitch.
Use 6 strands of thread in Anchor 102, Anchor 110, Anchor 108 and a Milliners needle size 3.
All flowers will be stitched in lazy daisy stitch using 6 strands of thread, alternating between 3 shades of purple. Start with the darkest shade of purple.
Start by bringing your needle up from the back. Then insert the needle down in the same spot to create a loop. Hold the loop on the surface with one hand.
While holding the loop with one hand, emerge at the end of the tiny line in the middle of the loop.
To support and anchor the loop, we’ll make a tiny holding stitch over the loop we have just created.
Following the pattern, continue stitching all the dark flowers using the darkest shade of purple – Anchor 102.
Switch to the medium purple – Anchor 110 and embroider all the medium shade flowers using the same lazy daisy stitch.
And lastly, stitch all the remaining flowers using the lightest shade of purple – Anchor 108.
Adding the Jute Twine Bow
Optional you can tie a bow of natural jute twine using a tapestry needle size 18.
Additionally, you can tie a jute twine bow. For this step you will need a needle with a large eye – a tapestry needle size 18 should be fine.
Thread your needle with 18-20cm jute twine. Don’t tie a knot at the ends. Gently pull the jute twine through the fabric, while holding half of the twine on the surface.
Come back up and pull through the other half of the twine. Remove the needle and tie a knot.
Once knotted you can easily tie a bow. If needed you can adjust the size and cut the excess twine if it’s too long.
I really hope you enjoyed stitching with me this lavender embroidery and can’t wait to see your beautiful design. At this point, you can choose to display your embroidery in the same hoop you have embroidered it, or frame it.
If you’re looking for more flower basket inspiration, don’t miss out on the flower coloring pages article. Even though they’re not exactly embroidery patterns, you can totally tweak them for a cool hand embroidery project. There are some seriously adorable floral baskets that would rock this same technique we covered in this tutorial.
Until next time, happy stitching and let me know in the comments below if you have any questions. I’ll do my best to answer any questions you might have.
Remember that you can download the lavender flowers pattern and many other free patterns from the Free Pattern Library. To access it just fill out the form below and I will send you an email with your password.
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Did you try this pattern? Come over to our Facebook Group and show everyone your magic!
SAVE THIS FOR LATER? ADD THE LAVENDER EMBROIDERY ARTICLE TO YOUR FAVOURITE PINTEREST BOARD
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