Today we’ll explore one of my favorite stitches – the raised chain stitch. I felt in love with this stitch when working on the thistle flower pattern. Instead of working the usual stem stitch for the flower stems, which I normally do, I decided to switch things up and give the chain band stitch a shot for some extra texture.
But guess what? This awesome stitch method isn’t just for flowers. Let’s see how to stitch it and when it’s suitable to use it.
USE: Heavy borders, covering seams
OTHER NAMES: Raised chain, raised chain band
The raised chain stitch is a decorative composite border stitch that produces a braid textured result. Unlike the basic chain stitch, the chain band is a combination of two basic stitches – chain stitch worked over straight stitch foundation, without piercing the fabric.
In my opinion, this is one of the easiest composite border stitches, with literally zero learning curve.
If you’re looking for other stitches to add texture check out these articles:
How to Work a Raised Chain Stitch Band
You’ll usually see the raised chain band stitched in a straight line, but don’t think you can’t get a little fancy with some slightly curved lines.
When working the raised chain band, here are a few things to keep in mind:
- Use thick thread: for best results use all 6 strands of stranded cotton embroidery thread, or any other thick thread
- Use blunt needles: for the interlacing use a blunt tapestry needle
- Use one or two colors: you can embroider the raised chain band in one or two colors
1. Make sure your fabric is stretched out nicely so your stitches don’t get distorted. Work a stack of short rows of parallel straight stitches.
2. Bring the needle up slightly above the first straight stitch. Pull the thread through and slide the needle under the first straight stitch to the left side.
3. Then bring the needle back round and slip it under that same straight stitch to the right side, working downwards.
4. When you pull the thread, make sure that it goes over the loop it forms.
5. Gently draw the thread through until it forms a knot. Do not pull too hard.
6. Take the needle under the second straight stitch working upwards and to the left.
7. Then again bring the needle round and under the same second straight stitch on the right.
8. Draw the thread through to form a second knot.
9. Keep on making chain stitches until you’ve stitched your way right down to the very last straight foundation stitch.
10. At the end of the last stitch, anchor it with a small straight stitch and secure the thread on the back to finish. And this is the finished raised chain band.
Raised Chain Band Variation
Depending on your project requirements, you can work the raised chain band in two colors. Start with one color for the straight stitch foundation, then switch over to a second color work chain stitches as explained before.
1. Thread your needle with the first color and work the stack of short parallel straight stitches. When done secure the thread on the back of the fabric.
2. Swap to the second and bring the needle up slightly above the first straight stitch. Then take the needle under the straight stitch working upwards and to the left.
3. Then bring the needle round and under the same straight stitch on the right, working downwards.
4. When done with the chain stitches, anchor the very last loop to one with a small straight stitch, then secure the thread on the back.
5. Once you’re done chain stitching it’ll look like a two-colored braid. You can experiment with more contrasting colors to really make it pop!
When to Use the Raised Chain Stitch
Most of the time, you’ll find the raised chain band incorporated in raised hand embroidery projects paired with other three-dimensional embroidery stitches and materials.
At first glance, this stitch might seem like it’s not that versatile, but actually, it’s quite the opposite. You can incorporate this lovely textured stitch into just about any project where you want to add some stunning textures. Even slightly curved lines!
Stems and Curved Lines
The raised chain stitch is a great choice for textured flower stems. Looks great when combined with a smooth satin stitch and you can work it on slightly curved lines too.
The trick is to stitch the parallel straight stitch foundation at an angle, then work the chain stitch as you would normally do.
Decorative Accents
When worked in a line, this stitch produces a braid like band. This makes it ideal for hiding seam lines.
You’ll often find it or use it as a decorative stitch, hiding the seam of biscornu pincushions or other sewing projects.
Tips and Tricks for Beautiful Raised Chain Bands
The raised chain band is about as straightforward as it gets, and even if you’ve never picked up a needle and thread before, you’ll nail it from the get-go. It’s that easy!
For a beautiful end result remember the following tips:
- Be consistent with your stitches: when working the straight stitch foundation make sure to be consistent with the spaces between the straight lines and be consistent with the stitch length
- Use tapestry needles: although not mandatory, I recommend you use a blunt needle for the chain stitches – tapestry needles (cross-stitch needles) are the best for interlacing
- Keep a medium tension: when working the chain stitches don’t pull the thread too hard
- Use thick threads: this stitch looks best when worked with thick threads or all 6 strands of stranded embroidery floss.
If you’re not familiar with tapestry needles, read all about them in this article on cross-stitch needles size guide.
Frequently Asked Questions
Raised chain stitch is a decorative hand embroidery stitch usually embroidered in a straight line that creates a textured band that looks like a braid. It’s a combination of two basic stitches – straight stitch and chain stitch.
Raised chain stitch band is a great stitch for hiding seams. You can use it as a decorative stitch to embellish different sewing projects or hide seams in pincushions and cushions. It’s a real texture superstar!
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More Embroidery Stitches
- Stem Stitch Video Tutorial
- Double Running Stitch Video Tutorial
- Back Stitch Video Tutorial
- Running Stitch Video Tutorial
What is your favorite hand embroidery stitch? Let me know in the comments below or come say hello on Instagram. I’ll say hi right back!
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