USE: Straight lines and curves, lettering, or as a filling
OTHER NAMES: Tambour stitch, point de chainette
The chain stitch is one of the oldest hand embroidery stitches, part of a much wider family of looped stitches. In today’s article, we’ll explore the basic version of this versatile stitch, and learn how and when to use the basic chain stitch in embroidery projects.
How to embroider the basic Chain Stitch
The basic chain stitch is one of the oldest and most versatile hand embroidery stitch, that behaves really well when worked both in a straight row or a continuously curved line.
Use the chain stitch in embroidery for monograms and lettering, to outline designs and motifs, or when worked in close rows, as a filling.
The basic chain stitch can be worked in two different methods:
- the sewing method
- the stab method
Let’s explore both methods and see when to use them.
METHOD 1 – The Sewing Method
Stitching the chain stitch using the sewing method is ideal when you embroider without a hoop or a frame. When using this method you’ll only be working on the front of your fabric.
1. Start by bringing your needle up (A), take the needle down into the fabric in the same hole you came out of (A), and bring it up again one stitch forward (B) without pulling the needle out completely.
2. Wrap the thread under the needle from left to right to form a loop.
3. Pull out the needle and the thread to tighten the loop. This is your first chain stitch.
4. For the second chain stitch, go back down again into the hole you came out of (B), which is inside the previous loop, and bring it up one stitch forward (C).
5. Repeat the same process until you complete the line. Anchor the last chain stitch with a small straight stitch (D), similar to the lazy daisy stitch.
METHOD 2 – The Stab Method
If you’re working on a tight hoop or frame, ideally you’ll want to use the stab method. If you’re right-handed you’ll be working from left to right, if you’re left-handed you’ll work your stitch from right to left.
1. Start by bringing your needle up and take your needle down into the fabric in the same hole you came out of. Keep the loop on top of the fabric.
2. Come back up one stitch forward, inside the loop, and pull your thread forward to complete your first chain stitch.
3. For the second stitch, go back down into the hole you came out of, which is inside your previous stitch. Keep the loop on top of the fabric.
4. Then come up one stitch forward, inside the loop, and pull the thread.
5. Repeat the same process until you complete the line.
6. Anchor the last loop with a straight stitch, similar to the lazy daisy stitch.
When to use Chain Stitch
Depending on your project requirements, you can use this lovely stitch in almost any hand embroidery project. Some of the best uses of chain stitch include:
Outlining
Chain stitch is perfect if you’re looking to outline different shapes or designs. It creates a smooth, continuous line that can be used to define the edges of a design or add depth and texture to a piece.
Filling
Another great use of the chain stitch is to fill in large areas of a pattern. Here is an example of chain stitch used as a filling. The embroidery below is worked almost exclusively in chain stitch.
By working rows of chain stitch close together, I created a solid, textured surface for the flowers and birds that added a bit more dimension to this folk embroidery.
This gorgeous texture makes it one of my favorite stitches when filling larger areas.
Lettering
Chain stitch is an excellent option for embroidering letters. Works really well with cursive fonts creating smooth, flowing lines, or you can use it to fill bold chunky fonts.
If you followed my tutorial on how to embroider letters, you remember this example where I used the chain stitch to embroider this cursive font.
The “Summer” text might look a bit chunky in this example as it was stitched in six strands of thread.
If you’re after finer lines you just need to stitch using less number of strands, 2-4 strands of thread should be fine for a more elegant effect.
I admit, the chain stitch is not my favourite stitch when it comes to lettering. It seems I always turn to the stem stitch or outline stitch. But this is just a personal preference.
Decorative Accents
You can use the chain stitch to create all sorts of decorative accents in needlework projects, including flowers, leaves, and other organic shapes.
To create interesting textures and effects you can play with the stitch length.
Chain stitch FAQ’s
The best use of chain stitch in hand embroidery depends a lot on the design and effect you are trying to achieve. With its versatility and adaptability, you can use chain stitch as an outline, filling, for lettering and decorative accents.
Chain stitch is also known as Tambour stitch or point de chainette.
The basic chain stitch is part of a much wider family of looped stitches. A few variations of the chain stitch are: whipped chain stitch, reverse chain stitch, Russian chain stitch, detached chain stitch, knotted chain stitch, cable chain stitch, feathered chain stitch, twisted chain stitch, and raised chain band.
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More Embroidery Stitches
- Stem Stitch Video Tutorial
- Double Running Stitch Video Tutorial
- Back Stitch Video Tutorial
- Running Stitch Video Tutorial
- Raised Chain Stitch Band Embroidery
What is your favorite hand embroidery stitch? Let me know in the comments below or come say hello on Instagram. I’ll say hi right back!
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Does anyone know who I can contact to chain stitch a name on the back of a jacket for a special 1960’s project for a documentary.
Howard 301-351-6544 I live in the Washington dc Baltimore area.
Hi Howard ,
No sure in Baltimore area, maybe someone else can help. But I can recommend rangerstitch.com. I’m sure if you drop them a message you can arrange to send them the jacket and have it stitched. It’s a really nice family studio specialized in chain stitch embroidery using vintage machines. Hope this helps.